Lawn Seeding
Elite Lawn is a blend of turf quality Bluegrasses, Perennial Rye grass,
and creeping red fescue. Elite lawn is a cool season perennial ground
cover forming a beautiful, high quality, dense sod. An excellent lawn
planting choice.
H2O Saver is a blend of improved fine fescue
grasses. Fescue grasses are specifically blended to create a high drought
tolerant blend that keeps a bright green color with minimal need for H2O.
H2O Saver is a popular choice
for areas that need to look good with minimal maintenance.
Bluegrass grows by roots from single plants and at the same time sends
out stems to form their own roots. This interweaves and supports the base
making it denser as it grows. Less moisture can be lost this way to
evaporation than with the more "open" growing plants with ground and air
space between the plants themselves. This is why this grass falls into the
creeping grass category.
Additions of creeping red fescue, perennial rye grass or
annual rye grass seeds are included in bluegrass for several reasons. Red
Fescue tolerates shadier areas where bluegrass may not get enough
sunshine. Annual rye grass is often seeded with the bluegrass to achieve
green-up earlier and dies off when warmer weather sets in.
The addition of perennial ryegrass helps to develop a
tougher sod that stands up to tougher wear. Bluegrass and perennial rye
are good companion grasses for athletic fields and playgrounds. These
different combinations of grass seeds works exceedingly well for newly
planted seedbeds and over seeding existing stands of bluegrass lawns. The
balanced mix is chosen to utilize the specialties derived per each kind;
blending traits to produce the best composite coverage possible. Including
the faster growing Ryegrass also produces a lawn cover while the Bluegrass
grows in.
EARLY SPRING LAWN CARE
- Keep off the lawn in the
spring until the ground has dried and is firm to walk on.
- Rake up debris, dead grass,
leaves, etc.
- Roll "frost bumps" with a
light roller.
- Aerate the lawn annually in
high traffic areas, every other year is usually sufficient in
low use areas.
- Apply a 30-5-5 lawn
fertilizer.
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LATE SPRING
- Apply grass seed to repair damaged
areas or thicken an existing lawn*
- Apply 21-7-7 lawn fertilizer.
- Follow mowing suggestions listed
below.
- If lawn weeds are a problem
see FAQ's Page
SUMMER LAWN CARE
- Follow watering and mowing
suggestions listed below.
- Apply 16-8-8 lawn fertilizer.
- If insects are a problem
see FAQ's Page
FALL LAWN CARE
- Fall is the best time to apply
grass seed to repair damaged areas or thicken existing lawn*
- Follow watering and mowing
suggestions listed below.
- Apply 21-7-7 a premium
winterizing fertilizer.
- If lawn weeds are a problem
see FAQ's Page
*Grass seed germination is not
compatible with weed control products used on lawns. They cannot
be applied with in 6 weeks of each other. As a general rule - seed
in the spring and weed in the fall or weed in the spring and seed
in the fall. |
WATERING
- Most lawns require a minimum of
2.5cm (1") of water per week during the summer.
- In dry conditions, water heavily
once a week as opposed to a daily sprinkling (daily sprinkling
encourages shallow roots, which will increase the chance of burn
during hot spells)
- Try to wet the entire root zone.
- Do not water at night – the chance
of fungus developing is increased.
- Use a rain gauge or aluminum pie
plate to measure if the correct amount of water is being applied.
MOWING
- Ensure mower blade is sharp to
prevent frayed appearance.
- Mow to 5cm to 7.5cm (2"-3") in
spring and fall
- Raise mower another 1cm (˝")
during hot weather to improve drought resistance.
- Never remove more than 1/3rd of
the grass blade at one mowing.
- Change direction of the cut each
time to keep coarse grasses under control and ensure an even
surface.
AERATION
- Aeration will increase the amount
of air, water and nutrients getting to the soil, which will
strengthen grass roots and help create a healthier lawn.
- Aeration should be done annually
in high traffic areas.
- Aeration before an application of
fertilizer will allow nutrients easier access to root systems.
FERTILIZER APPLICATION
- Read the complete label before
using.
- Remove debris, toys, etc from the
lawn.
- Use a good broadcast spreader with
an accurate flow setting.
- Wash and lubricate spreader after
use.
- Fill the spreader on the drive or
walk and not on the lawn.
- Sweep up spilt fertilizer.
- Shut off the spreader when
stopping or turning.
- Apply half of the required
fertilizer in one direction on the lawn (i.e. north/south). Apply
the remaining fertilizer across the lawn (i.e. east/west). This will
help to provide even coverage and prevent streaking from missed
spots and overlap.
- Do not apply Weed & Feed when rain
is expected.
- Do not water the lawn for 48 hours
after applying Weed & Feed
- Store any remaining fertilizer in
a cool dry place.
- Wash after using fertilizer.
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Frequently asked questions about
grass seed.
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How long does it take for grass seed to
germinate
- Depending on mixture, you should
expect initial growth for most varieties to begin in 7 days provided
adequate moisture is available, soil is warm enough and conditions allow
for germination.
- Kentucky Bluegrass will take up to 30
days to germinate.
- The more ryegrass in the mix the
faster the grass will establish.
- The more bluegrass in the mix the
slower the grass will establish.
- First mowing should take place when
the lawn is thick and the grass blades reach 3" in height.
Should I seed or lay sod?
Before you start, you may question
whether to use seed or sod. Both options have advantages, which need to be
weighed.
Seeding
Pros:
- Cost
- Seeding a lawn is a fraction of the
cost compared to sod.
- Customization
- Seeding allows you to use different
blends for different areas on your property (sun, shade, etc.).
Personal satisfaction is another factor. Seeing a lawn germinate from
seed and fill into a lush stand of turf gives the same sense of
accomplishment one feels from raising vegetables in a garden or
preparing a spectacular meal from scratch.
Cons:
It takes 8-12 weeks for a new lawn to
fully establish. During this time you want little to no traffic on it.
You'll also need to keep the ground moist through most of this period. It
is also susceptible to invasion by weeds during this establishment time.
Sod
Pros:
Sod is an instant lawn. One day bare
ground, the next day a fully-grown lawn. It's hard to beat that. Most sod
growers are experienced, professional turf grass managers. They produce a
high quality product and use improved varieties that aren't readily
available in the retail market.
Cons:
Cost is the biggest factor here. For many
people, sod isn't in their budget.
When is the best time to seed?
- Best time to seed is late summer –
early fall.
- The exact timing will vary from
location to location and from year to year.
- The hot days of summer should be
past before seeding.
- Fall seeding allows two
establishment periods (fall and spring) before the grass must go
through a hot, dry summer.
- Soil temperatures are warm to
promote fast germination and the nights are cool.
- Increased morning dew helps keep
seeds moist.
- Reduced pressure from competitive
weeds.
Can I seed in the Spring?
Yes, apply seed in Spring when soil
temperature reaches 15°C (60°F) - Ideally mid May to mid June. If you
have spread grass seed in the early spring, it will not germinate
until the soil temperature reaches about 15°C (about 59°F). |
What can I
do about weeds in my lawn?
The best defense against lawn weeds
is a thick healthy lawn. If you choose to use a pest control product
always read the label and follow all directions and precautions.
If weeds are a problem consider the
following guide*
- A few weeds in the lawn? - Dig by
hand; ensure you remove the entire root.
- Many weeds scattered throughout
the lawn? - Use Lawn WeedOut® Ready-To-Use to spray the individual
weeds.
- Many weeds in few areas of the
lawn? - Use Lawn WeedOut® Attach & Spray or Lawn WeedOut®
Concentrate to spray the area.
- Many weeds over the entire lawn? -
Use Lawn WeedOut® Attach & Spray or Lawn WeedOut® concentrate or use
a premium slow release lawn fertilizer with weed control (in place
of a regular fertilizer application) to treat the entire lawn
*Grass seed germination is not
compatible with weed control products used on lawns. They cannot be
applied within 6 weeks of each other. As a general rule - seed in the
spring and weed in the fall or weed in the spring and seed in the
fall. |
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What can I do
about lawn insects?
Here is some information about the common
lawn insect pests. The best defense against insect damage is a thick
healthy lawn. If you choose to use a pest control product always read the
label and follow all directions and precautions
Grubs
Grubs feed on the roots of the grass.
Damage is identified as dead grass that can be lifted like a piece of
carpet. Grub damage is usually first noticed in mid- to late August;
damage will first occur in the sunniest, driest locations of the lawn
and can spread very quickly during dry conditions. To check for grubs,
cut and turn over a 1 ft square section of grass at the edge of a
brown area. Grubs will be found within the top couple cm of soil. The
grubs are milky white with a brown head and a darker tail. They will
be curled up in a "C" shape and may be up to 1.7 cm (3/4 inch) long. 5
or more grubs in a square foot can cause damage to the lawn and
treatment should be considered. For good grub control it is important
to follow all of the following steps.
- Remove as much of the thatch as
possible with a heavy raking.
- Pre-soak the lawn with water.
Ensure that the soil is wet down to the grass root zone
- Apply GrubOut®. Follow the label
directions for application rates and coverage.
- Water-in to rinse the GrubOut® off
the grass blades and into the soil
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Chinch Bugs
| Chinch Bugs can cause
severe damage to lawns. The Chinch Bug sucks the juices out of the
blades of grass causing the lawn to turn yellowish brown, dry up and
die. The damage will first be noticed in dry sunny areas and spread
out in irregular patches. They attack the grass in mid to late summer
usually during dry conditions. To check for Chinch Bugs, remove both
ends of a large can and press it 3-5 cm into the ground at the edge of
a brown patch. Fill the can with water and keep it filled for 10
minutes. Chinch Bugs will float to the surface. They are black to
brown insects with white on their wings, approximately 3-5 mm (1/8 ")
long. Apply GrubOut® as damage is noticed. A second application in 14
days is often required. Grass seed varieties that contain endophyte
can help reduce damage caused by Chinch Bugs. |
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Ants
Ants are more of a nuisance than a
serious lawn pest. Anthills and their tunneling can damage your lawn by
smothering the grass and drying out the soil. Ants in your lawn left
unchecked will find their way into the house. Long-term control of ants
can only be achieved by destroying the nest. Apply GrubOut® directly to
the anthills and water in. For more complete control over a larger area,
spray the entire lawn, gardens, patio and around the house with special
attention to anthills and trails.
Sod Webworm
| Sod Webworm, the larvae
of Lawn Moths feed on the blades of grass, chewing them off at ground
level. Damage will appear as irregular brown patches scattered in the
driest area of the lawn. If left unchecked these patches become larger
and the entire lawn can be destroyed. Dead grass will pull away in
clumps. The larva are dirty white in color with a dark brown head and
rows of dark spots on their back. They live in silky tubes near the
roots. The adults are small light colored moths that fly up from the
lawn in the evening when they are disturbed. Damage usually appears in
late August and September. Apply GrubOut® when damage is first noticed
or when moths are plentiful. For best results apply in the afternoon
or evening to a moist lawn. Grass seed varieties that contain
endophyte can help reduce damage caused by Sod webworms. |
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Cranefly Larva
| The adult Crane Fly
looks like a large mosquito. The larvae, called leatherjackets, feed
on the grass in the fall and spring. The worst damage is done in March
and April. By mid June leather jackets stop feeding and move deeper
into the soil to pupate. Leatherjackets are found just under the
surface of the soil. Cut and roll back the sod to check for
leatherjackets. The regions hardest hit with leatherjacket damage are
Southern ON, BC, Nova Scotia. The domestic product registered for
leatherjacket control at this time is Diazinon. Commercial applicators
are using Sevin and Diazinon. |
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What is the best choice for erosion
control?
On steep slopes, where erosion is likely
to be a problem, select a ground cover that will root firmly to hold the
soil in place. From the mid US to northern Canada, one of the best species
for erosion control is crown vetch. It is best grown in sunny, well
drained areas. It is very winter and drought hardy. It is also a legume
like clover so it will fix its own nitrogen. Crown vetch blooms
prolifically with pinkish purple flowers. Once established, the site will
explode into color each summer.
The main drawback to crown vetch is that
it is very slow to establish. In the first year, you barely be able to see
any. In the second year it will start to show. However once it is
established, it will be very aggressive and over the next few years will
likely colonize the entire area that you planted.
Because of its slow start, crown vetch is
best seeded with a cover grass. A mix of ryegrass (perennial or annual)
and creeping red fescue works well. These grasses will hold the ground
while the vetch first establishes and then eventually takes over.
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